Chefchaouen — locally just "Chaouen" — sits 600 metres up in the Rif Mountains, 4 hours by car from Tangier or 6 from Fez. The town is tiny: you can walk the entire Medina in 90 minutes. But you'll spend three days here anyway. **Why blue?** Three competing theories. The most quoted: Jewish refugees from 1492 Spain dyed walls blue (the colour of heaven in Sephardic tradition). The most pragmatic: blue keeps mosquitoes away. The most romantic: a 1930s mayor liked the colour. The truth is probably all three, layered. **Photo spots, in order of magic**: 1. **The blue staircase at the top of Rue Bin Souaq** — go at 7am, you'll have it alone for 20 minutes before instagrammers descend 2. **Plaza Outa el-Hammam** — the main square, golden-stone Kasbah on one side, cobalt walls on the other 3. **The Spanish Mosque viewpoint** — 25-minute uphill walk east of the Medina; sunset over the blue town with the Rif behind. Don't miss it. 4. **Ras El-Maa waterfall** — at the top of the Medina, where locals do laundry in the spring water 5. **Rue Hassan I** — the most photographed alley, blue walls in five shades, hanging plants **Where to stay**: a riad inside the Medina, always. Casa Hassan, Lina Ryad, Dar Mounir, Dar Echchaouen. From 35 EUR. **Food**: Chaouen cooks more vegetarian than the rest of Morocco — bean stews, goat cheese, fresh trout from the river. Try **bissara** (fava bean soup, breakfast classic) and **kefta tajine**. Café Clock has a Chaouen branch — sandwich rooftop above the square. **Day hikes**: - **Talassemtane National Park** — fir forests, Berber villages, day-hike to God's Bridge (natural stone arch) is the classic - **Akchour waterfalls** — 30 minutes by grand-taxi, then a 90-minute walk along the river to two waterfalls - **Spanish Mosque ridge** — easy 40 minutes from the Medina **Practical**: - Chefchaouen is famous for one other thing: kif (hashish) is openly grown in the surrounding Rif Mountains. You will be approached by sellers. Be polite, say no firmly. Possession is illegal and tourist arrests do happen. - The Medina is steep — wear shoes with grip. - Many shops close Friday afternoon for prayer. - Best months: April–June and September–November. July–August is hot; winter can be snowy in the surrounding peaks. **Getting there**: easiest from Tangier (4h by grand-taxi or shared minibus, 80 dirhams). From Fez 4–5 hours. From Marrakech, fly to Tangier — the road is brutal. Stay two nights. The first day you'll be in awe. The second, you'll get a coffee in your favourite square and finally see the town past the colour.